In chaos theory, the butterfly effect describes how a small change in one variable can trigger an entirely unexpected outcome. In cooking, as in chaos theory, the margin between failure and something extraordinary is often vanishingly thin. This recipe took four attempts, three failures, a fair amount of yogurt wasted, and one small adjustment in technique that […]
Recipes
The Summers I Keep Going Back To
Every year, sometime in March or early April, the mangoes arrive. Not the ripe ones – those come later, golden and yielding and sweet enough to eat standing over the sink with juice running down your wrists. These are the raw ones, hard, green, and sour, smelling of something sharp and alive. And every year, […]
A Dessert Born from Revenge: The Dark and Delicious Story of Umm Ali
There is something about Ramzan that makes certain foods taste different. Maybe it’s the hour — that particular quality of hunger after a long day of fasting. Maybe it’s the table full of people, the low evening light, the sense of occasion. Whatever it is, Umm Ali belongs to this season completely. The moment you […]
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